Here's the upcoming monthly releases announced by Bulkamancer Sculpts and h3LL Creator
As always, with these new releases, these models will be added to the shop, starting December 1st.
3D printing has changed the way we create and collect models. It opens up new possibilities for hobbyists and collectors who want unique, custom pieces. I’ve spent nearly four years (and counting) exploring this world, and I want to share what I’ve learned. Whether you’re just starting or looking to improve your prints, these insights will help point you in the right direction.
We use a combination of FDM & UV Resin printing to produce the figurines and collectibles we offer. This mix of materials helps keep material costs lower than average and has become part of our signature when it comes to 3D printing production in this niche.
A 3D print model starts out as digital file, typically created in program like SCAD, Blender or Nomad Sculpt, then converted into a format called an STL, processed through a slicer software like Cura or Lychee that produces a compatible file that tells a 3D printer how to build an object layer by layer. These models come in many forms - from simple shapes to complex miniatures and figurines. You can find free models online or buy detailed ones from talented artists. There are hundreds of creators of hundreds of thousands of files.
The quality of your print depends heavily on the model’s design, quality of your printing materials and the type of 3D printer you use; FDM or SLA/DLP. A well-made model has clean geometry and no errors like holes or overlapping parts. Before printing, it’s important to check the file using software tools, like UVTools, that can repair common issues. This step saves time and material.
If printing highly detailed models or miniatures, a SLA/DLP Resin printer is more effective. If printing a model with low details or is meant to be form functional, an FDM printer may be more effective. The technology behind 3D printing has made such dramatic leaps and bounds, the gap of quality between SLA/DLP and FDM has shortened considerably but some applications are, still. better suited to one type of printer over the other.
Getting a good print is not just about the model. The printer settings and materials matter a lot. Here are some practical tips you should keep in mind:
Choose the right filament: PLA is great for beginners because it’s easy to print and affordable. ABS is stronger but needs a heated bed and good ventilation. PETG is a good middle ground between the two, as it possess qualities of both PLA and ABS, but without the toxicity dangers of ABS.
Adjust layer height: Lower layer heights (0.1 mm) give finer details but take longer. For quick prints, 0.2mm works well. You will also want to switch your nozzle size to accommodate the increase (or decrease) in layer heights being used.
Use supports wisely: Overhangs need support structures. Place them only where necessary to avoid extra cleanup. Do not hesitate to rotate your model to minimize the amount of supports you need before printing
Calibrate your printer: Regularly check bed leveling and nozzle height. A well-calibrated printer reduces print failures. You may also find you need to create custom setting profiles for your material so it prints at the optimal setting (nozzle temp, bed temp, flow rate, etc.)
Control print speed: Slower speeds improve quality but increase print time. Find a balance based on your model’s complexity.
Dry Your Filament: Despite being vacuum sealed or stored in a cool, dry place, your filament might have moisture trapped in it, leading to bubbling and inconsistencies during the printing process. Investing in a filament dry will help eliminate this problem.
These tips help avoid common problems like warping, stringing, and poor adhesion. Experiment with settings to find what works best for your printer and model.
Choose the right Resin: 'Standard' resin is great for beginners because it’s easy to print and affordable. ABS-like is stronger but does not always retain finer detail as well. There are options, such as Eco/Plant-Base resins (reduced fume toxicity) and 'High-Speed' resins for faster print times. Research the specs of the brand and type of resin to find what suits your project best.
Adjust layer height: SLA/DLP printers at MUCH smaller layer heights than FDM does. The default setting of 0.05mm is fine in most cases, but you can go smaller. Do keep in mind the smaller your layer heights, the longer your print takes to complete and there might be an increase in failures if you go too small for your project.
Use supports wisely: Overhangs need support structures. Place them only where necessary to avoid extra cleanup. Do not hesitate to rotate your model to minimize the amount of supports you need before printing. Adjust the thickness and placement of supports to assure you are not damaging finer surface details (when possible)
Calibrate your printer: Regularly check bed leveling, condition of the FEP and LCD screen. You should also regularly drain and clean the vat to remove debris and 'remix' any standing resin. A well-calibrated printer reduces print failures. You may also find you need to create custom setting profiles for your material so it prints at the optimal setting (layer height, cure time, burn in layers, etc.)
 Control print speed: Slower speeds improve quality but increase print time. Find a balance based on your model’s complexity.
Store your Resin Properly (and don't forget to mix it): Make sure you store your resin bottles in a cool, dry place and before refilling your vat, shake the bottle well to mix the resin. Though the bottles are, typically, opaque, keep your resin away from the sun as though the UV may not effect them, the heat from sunlight will.
Once the print is done, post-processing can make a big difference. Here are some methods I use to improve the look and feel of my models:
Sanding: Start with coarse sandpaper and move to finer grits. This smooths out layer lines. With more organic or complex prints, I will use a rotary tool (equipped with engraving bits) and a reciprocating pen sander.
Assembly: For multi-piece models, use super glue + curing accelerant and/or E6000 (please be aware this type of adhesive takes a full 24hrs to fully cure) to assemble parts securely. Use wire or brass/wood rods to provide stability for parts that may sag or struggle to remain secure with adhesive alone.
Filling gaps: Use putty or filler to cover small imperfections before painting. Some favor epoxies like Milliput or Liquid Green Stuff.
Priming: Clean the surface of your model with mild water + dish soap and/or use a soft brush to remove any dust & debris from prior steps. Use a primer to prepare the surface. Be cautious about using primers meant for more aggressive surfaces, like metal, as you could damage your model in the process.
Painting: Acrylic paints work fine but whatever you wish to use, as long as you've primed the surface, the paint should stick as you work.
Sealing: Apply a clear varnish coat (we use a semi-gloss) to protect the paint and add a professional finish.
These steps take time but greatly improve the final product.
The fun part of 3D printing is having access to unique designs. You can download models from repository sites like Thingiverse, Cults 3DD or MyMiniFactory, but many collectors prefer exclusive or custom pieces.
If you want something truly unique, consider designing your own models. Software like Tinkercad, Blender or NomadSculpt lets you create and/or modify designs. It takes practice but gives you full control over the final product. Research software to see which suits your needs most.
Another option is commissioning artists or designers who specialize in 3D models. This way, you get a custom piece tailored to your preferences.
For those who want ready-made options, shops like Curios of the Abyss, offer a curated selection of high-quality 3d print models. These are perfect for collectors looking for detailed and original designs.
*Template for this blog generated by Astro AI (Wix), but heavily edited by human author(s).
The September models from h3LL Creator are now available to order!
Unfortunately, due to circumstances last month, my pledge to Bulkamancer for September lapsed so I, currently, am unable to offer the models released in September '25 for now.
*Aloy, Ciri and V already had existing listings, so the new models are options under those listings.
